Why not a review of the hollow K-force light?  I've had a set for 3 months now!!!  100g lighter PLUS ceramic bearing BB for the same money.

 P.S. The rings not only shift well, from previous FSA ring experience they last 4 times as long as shimano.

How much £££!!!!???!!!

for how much weight saving?

you pay like £388 more to save about 150 grams or so

Let me add that i am a moth to a flame when it comes to this stuff, i can see i am gonna be broke after going to the cycle show!

Cranks can be considered one of the most important components on the bike

Well although Bikes aren't much use without then,  I bet blind tested you couldn't tell the different between that or a LX HT2,  so it's entirely £££'s spend to knock a few grams off.

I'm noticing Shimano are pretty much phasing out Square Tapered   thankfully Octalink seems like it's actually useable so will do!!,  don't force us down HT2 pls.

Is this the "BB Luddite" thread then?  If so, I'll join in - "HT2 is shit.  Octalink rules."

Ahhhhhh.  That's better.

I've got a spare SqT so should be okay for 5years of trouble free riding

Best I've found so far have been Enduro bearings.  2 years heavy use and still good as new.  As with all H2 designs, get the frame faced accurately and that's half the problem solved.

Working in a bike shop I've been amazed to find so far not a single frame correctly faced from the factory.  Many customers have had 3 months for the 1st set of bearings if unfaced and no problem at all since facing (except raceface which wear v. quickly).  We face EVERY frame upon build, but are probably one of very few shops that do.

I-drives do well,  as the BB isn't part of the frame it's a seperate forged block of metal,  so it's harder material and PEFECT facing wise,  so a HT2 would likely be fine for me.

Still see no advantage though,  so why bother.

Advantages are:-

Larger diameter axle = stiffer, so better power transfer.

Wider spaced bearings = stiffer, so better still.

Less leverage and larger bearings = less stress on individual balls and races so longer life.

Disadvantage is frame accuracy is what defines how parallel the 2 bearings are so facing is required for long life, therefore not DIY (the first time anyway, after that it's p!$$ easy).

And YES, EVEN THE CARBON FRAMES get faced as they all have alloy inserts for the BB threads anyway which protrude from the carbon and are often even less accurate than than the non carbon alternatives.  Even "faced at the factory" appearance isn't always 100% so no harm in checking is there?

well i have to say my XTC frame was beautifully faced from the factory (as were the disc tabs), i simply would not want to take a facing tool to it, the alloy inserts are flush having checked with a vernier gauge (although you can clearly see where it's been machined). There is no way i want to start cutting into the carbon that is flush with the alloy inserts.

I always had my alloy and steel frames faced tho, and i do see the benefits.

As you cn see, pretty crap, the metal inset that the pedal screws into is wobbling around in the crank arm. Not good for nearly £500. Would not risk buying them. Also the middle ring was made of cheese