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Farewell front mech, hello HammerSchmidt
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Farewell front mech, hello HammerSchmidt
Quite literally "gear news" as Truvativ unleashes super-compact front two-speed planetary gearbox magic on an unsuspecting world

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Have you got any details of the weight?
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Fingers X-ed, some time soon, we can ditch these stupid front and rear mech devices that Noah used on his bikes. 

Things couldn't be happening in a more positive direction. I wonder if bikes will have a whole front gearing system instead of the current way of doing things, having the rear wheel hub house the gears is one thing, but imagine having the whole assembly central and low down? Maybe belt drive too?

Which might just mean a whole new appraoch to bike design to make way for something larger in the BB area.

Interesting times.

Tim

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tim - the rohloff g-boxx is what you're after
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This isn't a completely new idea

Anyone else remember H-Ball riding the Shimano FM5 crank back in the day? Rather amusing that having been using theirs, he's now involved with SRAM's version!

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Lovely 3D CAD rendering there.
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Can you combine this new front mech with Shimano's newly released rear geared hub?

Anyone know what became of that Ellsworth system - couldn't locate it on their site?

Tim

Edited: 15/08/08 13:09

in the MBR write up,  +174 grams on a similar 2 ring setup is what there saying.

Claims in MBR to fix chain suck,  errr chain sucks worse with a 22T I find,  so pls explain how ??  PR crappola no doubt !!

Climbing,  in anything other than 1:1 Direct drive ie the 1:1.6 Ratio also wastes alot of power,  so granny ring climb ratio's only!!

On the Website you'll also spot,  you've got to cut the BB shell on your frame back so the Gearbox sits the right way up,  when the BB is screwed together tight,  which sounds a nitemare.

And yes you can combine it,  with a Alfine or even Rolhf gear box not that you'd need to with that ( if torque wise you can run 22T with a rohlf )

Looks like it would be a but susceptible to mud and grit, I can't see it working that well in British conditions,
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Claims in MBR to fix chain suck,  errr chain sucks worse with a 22T I find,  so pls explain how ??  PR crappola no doubt !!

You'll have one ring without any pins, ramps or shaped teeth on it, which will help. Also the single ring is in the middle ring position, so if the chain does stick to it it won't get wedged in the frame.

Climbing,  in anything other than 1:1 Direct drive ie the 1:1.6 Ratio also wastes alot of power,  so granny ring climb ratio's only!!

Although again, the ring is further outboard, so you can use the smaller sprockets on the cassette without any chainline nastiness. 

On the Website you'll also spot,  you've got to cut the BB shell on your frame back so the Gearbox sits the right way up,  when the BB is screwed together tight,  which sounds a nitemare.

Where does it say that (er, whatever it is that you're saying)? You need to face the BB shell and the ISCG mount, can't see anything objectionable about that.

And yes you can combine it,  with a Alfine or even Rolhf gear box not that you'd need to with that ( if torque wise you can run 22T with a rohlf )

The minimum sprocket ratio on a Rohloff is 2.35:1, the smallest available sprocket is 13 so the minimum chainring size is 32. So you can't. Might not be able to use it with Alfine either, now I come to think of it - don't know what the minimum ratio is on that.

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Alfine ratios are listed as 0.53 to 1.61 so running a 20T sprocket gives you the equivalent of 38 to 12 cassette.  You can run anything from a 16 to a 23 tooth sprocket on the hub.

Edited: 15/08/08 15:01
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You're answering the wrong question . What's the lowest ratio chainring/sprocket combination you can use without tearing the hub to bits?
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Isnt it unlikely that anybody would put it on a bike with hub gears its an all mountain/downhill thingummybob so wouldnt it be for bikes with rear suspension???

Anyway, who cares about all this it looks ace lets all get one quick

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shame about the ISCG mount , will there be HammerSchmidt only frames ? if so there should be some nice clean designs not having to cater for front mech clearance and the like.
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We suspect that finding a chain length that the derailleur can cope with at both ends of an 11-34 cassette could be a challenge too, but we'll reserve judgement on that until we get to try it.

Eh? My current derallieur copes OK with chain working over a that range, and 22-44 at the front. What's your beef?

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basically, he means that you've got an 11-34 cassette, with no variations up front. so you need a mech that can deal with an extra 23 teeth. which is quite a bit
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Eh? My current derallieur copes OK with chain working over a that range, and 22-44 at the front. What's your beef?

How's it look in 22/11?

I think it'll probably be OK, you can take a lot of links out if it's only got to stretch to 22/34 and that should mean that a long-cage mech can wrap all the excess in 22/11. Nothing'll stop it clattering like a good'un in that gear, though  

You'll have one ring without any pins, ramps or shaped teeth on it, which will help. Also the single ring is in the middle ring position, so if the chain does stick to it it won't get wedged in the frame.

None off above on my Deore Ring and it still gets chain suck alot especially in the peaks.

Climbing,  in anything other than 1:1 Direct drive ie the 1:1.6 Ratio also wastes alot of power,  so granny ring climb ratio's only!!

Although again, the ring is further outboard, so you can use the smaller sprockets on the cassette without any chainline nastiness. 

No directly wastes power,  and I don't want to waste power while climbing.

 Where does it say that (er, whatever it is that you're saying)? You need to face the BB shell and the ISCG mount, can't see anything objectionable about that.  Face it VERY accurately so the gearbox lines up,  over face and you need to cut back another thread to pull the device through nearly 360degrees.

The minimum sprocket ratio on a Rohloff is 2.35:1, the smallest available sprocket is 13 so the minimum chainring size is 32. So you can't. Might not be able to use it with Alfine either, now I come to think of it - don't know what the minimum ratio is on that.

I thought I read Rohloff couldn't take below a certain size,  so no use with that then.

Long Mech will be fine,  I frequently use 22 / 11 but saying that,  with the power going through it as if it's a 36-38T with the extra wasted in the gear box,  thats alot of strain to put through a 22T.

I like Strange and Freaky Technology as much if not more than anyone,  but this is not on my wish list,  if it was a 36T and it geared down to 22T then maybe,  and I rarely run in anything other than 22T to a extent I'll only be able to use the 22T soon

We need a CVT constant pedal speed the most efficent at the time ='s gear change = acceleration,  just tweak what speed you want to be pedalling at with a twist grip.

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I quite like the idea of running this with an Alfine on an AM bike - nothing sticking out.  But then someone's got to invent a chain tensioner to cope with the suspension moving, so you may as well have a rear mech...

I suppose the reason we're still using victorian technology mechs is that, despite the fact that we all mutter to ourselves "it can't possibly work in this mud"  the chain keeps going round and round and round. If chains and mechs didn't work, we'd have had something better years ago.

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None off above on my Deore Ring and it still gets chain suck alot especially in the peaks.

Your Deore ring has all of that, as does every Shimano chainring made in the last 18 years or so. 

No directly wastes power,  and I don't want to waste power while climbing.

Oh, how surprising, you've missed my point. On a derailleur bike, you don't want to be using anything other than the biggest two or three sprockets with your granny ring 'cos the chainline gets severely awful anywhere else. If your single ring is in the middle ring position then you get access to the whole cassette, so you can use smaller sprockets instead of the HammerSchmidt overdrive if you're worried about power loss. 

Face it VERY accurately so the gearbox lines up,  over face and you need to cut back another thread to pull the device through nearly 360degrees.

I asked you where it said that. Haven't found it yet.  

We need a CVT constant pedal speed the most efficent at the time ='s gear change = acceleration,  just tweak what speed you want to be pedalling at with a twist grip.

Here you go

Sweet,   mentions Bikes on there list so perfect hope they get that out and working soon.

On the list of advantages on the screen ( buttons ),  1 of the 1's on the right hand side.

My Deore 22T looks plain,  middles got it all and I had suck in the 22T yesterday.

I can use most of the block in granny here,  but i've got a longer BB Axle than I should have,  but I can't use middle 1 and 2 rear as it drops to the granny and can barely use the big ring cause of it,  keeps my big feet from hitting the frame all the time

 

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