What a coincidence. Only yesterday I decided to replace the transmission on the bike I've been cycling to work on a daily basis for the past couple of years. I spent two hours trying to remove the BB, which included taking a screwdriver, hammer and power drill to the splined plastic end cap which I managed to smash with my 'free with a packet of cornflakes' BB tool. So this morning I sheepishly took the frame into my LBS to see if they could save my frame. 2 minutes later they had removed the BB from the drive side (which I couldn't budge) using a BB tool that could be fixed in place by screwing it into the axle. I left the bike with them so they could re-thread the damage I did with the drill bit. I had a look for one of these wonder tools on the internet and came across this Blue Peteresque equivalent:
Purchase an 8mm x 1mm x 40mm bolt and two washers. Slide the bolt and washer through the BB tool. Slide a washer over the threaded end of the bolt and against your bottom bracket spindle. Then hand tighten the nut.
Now the BB tool is securely held inside of the bottom bracket's splines and cannot slip out.
This tip could just save you from the frustration and embarassment I have just put myself through.

or just use an old-type crank bolt with aforementioned washers, no need to go looking for a specific bolt size...

I keep the BB tool in place using an old QR skewer. Then I clamp the tool attached to the frame in in a vice and turn the frame. Comes out sweet as every time!

Hmmm. Perhaps I'd better take the one I fitted a year ago off, and use some Mr anti-seize stuff, rather than plain old grease.

never be tempted to tighten the cup into the frame with the tool-in-vice method. You get far too much leverage and can very easily over-tighten...

If the non-drive side bearing cup is half screwed in first, you can check the bearing is going in square. It helps keeping the bearing aligned and reduces the risk of the dreaded cross thread.

Thanks for the help everyone,I kinda knew what I was doing but all the wee tips posted above really helped. Well worth a read before anyone attempts this no matter what level of maintenance you are capable of.

I just nearly flattened my windpipe trying to undo the bolt on the drive side (surprisingly it wouldn't budge!), as it slipped I lunged forward with my neck into me seat. I could not breathe for a small amount of time.

I must learn to read stuff before I attempt!

"Purchase an 8mm x 1mm x 40mm bolt and two washers!!!" a bit easier said then down.

I had a real nightmare with my BB an went down exactly the same route you did. even manage to source th right size bolt with odd 1mm pitch. No matter how much i swore at it my BB would not come out.

Went to LBS chap in there struggle but after (this is what he said) soaking the bracket in release oil for 24 hours it eased out. (Hmmm I'm sure a blow torch and persuasion stick (hammer) musta entered into the equation somewhere). Anyway as long as i don't know i'm happy. Only cost me a tenner and he rean a tap through the threads too.

Your dads your uncle one removed BB.

A.L.F

Unfortunately the LBS couldn't help me out with my spelling and gramatical errors, however i'm blaming my new keyboards :-P

A.L.F

Know this thread died a month or two ago but if I may add my experience.

I got the non-drive side off my Kona (it had been there about 2.5 years) v. easily using just the tool plus adjustable wrench.

Drive side was a different story......
Wouldn't budge (bike in a workstand) with me practically hanging off the wrench. Tried a hammer on the wrench - not recommended causes the tool to start damaging the thread in the old b-bkt - full marks to the tool - not a blemish.
Sprayed lots of WD40 on the threads - about 2 hours later (after attempts every 30 mins!) I got it loose taking the advice of using the crank bolt and an improvised washer (ring spanner !!!) to hold the tool squarely in the b-bkt then just used a bit of force on the wrench and away it came.
I'm keeping my eye out for a suitable slave crank bolt for the future with large washer or failing that its been suggested to me that either a large 'G'-clamp may suffice to hold the tool in place or better still a 32mm socket on a wrench which could be held steady.
Hope that helps someone out rather than having the sinking feeling that they've mucked things up late into the evening and they need/want to ride next day.
As for the new b/bkt definitly thread the non-drive side a good half way in first and be v. patient with getting the drive side in exactly right.

I've found copper grease on the threads works wonders; with any new bike the first thing i do is take out the BB and grease it, no problems so far.............