 Mission impossible, "When you know how the Powerlink plate comes of really easily"
Have to disagree, that simply isn't true after a muddy ride. The dirt gets between the plates and practically lock them solid. I have had to resort to needle nose pliers pressing the rollers together to get the thing apart before. When they are clean it is easy.
And now i've had one give up the ghost while riding (not connected to the use of pliers, it was a new powerlink since then) i'm a little hesitant to use one again.
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 Craig, where did you get PC99s for $23 each? I just paid $30 for a brace of them from Speedgoat.
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Performance Bike shop were doing a special on them, I dunno what there website prices are www.performancebike.com
Speedgoat have a wide selection but for internet shopping Supergo asre most often the cheapest
:)
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 PC59 is more reliable but IMO doesnt shift as well as my old XT (which snapped on me) i think i'll invest in a PC 99
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 I can almost always split the power link with my hands even when it's dirty - a bit fidly sometimes, but rarely a problem after wiggling it from side to side a bit.
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Maybe the problem is the gritty type of mud round Bath or the fact i let it dry first?
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The powerlink is crap but necessary IMO. At least you don't have to join a link when you fit the chain. But once it's on, it's on. Needle nose pliers slip... ...if they are serrated they damage the rollers. There should be some sort of tool sometime sooner or later, the magazines have cottoned on the this problem too. Maybe they do actually ride bikes...
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lol... i took the powerlink out of my PC59
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Dave - have you tried giving the link a squirt from a camelbak?
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A good way to remove a stiff Powerlink is to wrap some wire around the plates in the middle, and twist the wire so it tightens and pulls the plates in. Then just slide the links apart and the link is apart. If you still have problems, give the link a quick blast with WD-40, and that should dislodge and crud that's in there.
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 Have used doyh Shimano and Sram chains, both have broken on me. BUT the big difference has been this, when a sram chain has broken, just disguard the link and ride for at least another month before a another link goes. When a shimano chain has broken ditch the link , repair the chain, cycle for about 10 minutes, ditch the link, repair the chain, repeat to fade.......
Shifting wise I've been unable to tell the difference between the two but prefer sram a, cos of above + b, tend to be a lot cheaper for comparable shimano models.
Here endeth my 2 pennies worth.
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that should be have used BOTH shimano......
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My Shimano nightmare: when I was a young lad, cruising around the local town centre at night with some mates. A big group of blokes decide they don't like the look of us and charge at us with beer bottles. We all sprint away on our bikes. Brand new Shimano IG chain on my bike twisted - one link was 90deg to the next. Pick up the bike, run like f**k. Never again will I use a Shitmano chain. Rest of their stuff's great though!
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I've never broken a chain !
I've used sachs/sedis Shimano, Campag, D.I.D. Regina, Suntour over the years.....
Are you lot doing something wrong or are my leggies not very strong !
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 SRAM, or is it SPAM?
SPAM chains, now there's a thought!
But seriously, SRAM chains rock!
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 So from the SRAM ones, PC99 is the way to go...worth the extra £ over the £10ish ones?
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 SRAM, SRAM, SRAM, SSSSSSHHHHHRRAAAAAAAAAM
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 Sram chains r good go with them, the rest of there stuff is crap compered to shimano
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i have never got decent shifting out of my drivechain since going from shimano to SRAM chain. I'm not sure why, it could be to do with wear of cassette etc.
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and how is this thread related to cranks?
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