I bought a cheap (£100) set of wheels at the Builth Merida in the spring when I noticed that the rim had cracked on my trusty Hope / Mavic XC717 rear wheel. The bearings on the new rear wheel has gone already, so I'm in the market for another pair of wheels.
I'd like something with easily servicable bearings. The bearings in the Hope XC hubs were OK to replace, but I did find the freehub bearings a bit of a faff.
I've been considering Hope Pro2 or Hope Pro3 but I've heard that Shimano XTR hubs are also quite servicable. Has anyone got experience of the Hope Pro's or the Shimano hubs? Or can anyone recommend me a good serviceable alternative?
Derek, DT hubs are sposed to be good, and very easy to service. I have the Onyx tho (Bontrager badged) and the pawls are not good enough. go for the next ones up as they dont use pawls.
In fact my pawls were worryingly slipping on several of the Scottish wildreness epics I've just come back from. It adds to the excitement!!
The top-end DT Swiss 240 hub uses a star ratchet system which is different from their low-end stuff and seems pretty much bullet-proof to me, the only downside beyond purchase price is that you need a special 20-quid tool to get to the bearings behind the free-hub - you can borrow mine though...
The Pro 2 seems good to me, I changed all the bearings in Julie's Pro 2 before Mayhem in about 30 minutes without any of the special tools. On the downside, they make a hell of a racket when freewheeling, which is great in race situations, not so good for trail riding. Hope XCs seem better for noise output and the ones on my Maverick's wheels have been stone reliable so far.
There's a Pro 2 maintenance video on the Hope site which gives a good idea of how easy it all is. If it weren't for the noise, I'd say they were pretty much ideal. Have a listen to some and see what you think - Julie has a set on her bike, I have some on my race wheels. The Pro 2 front is a nice design because you can use it with a normal QR, a 20mm axle or even a Maverick front hub just by swapping adaptors over.
I've run XT hubs briefly. Adjustable cone bearings, if the freehub bearings go, you buy a new freehub at almost the price of a new hub. I wouldn't...
Ringle Abbah - crap sealing, pawls wear and stop working, don't do it...
Guy managed to crack the body of a CK rear hub, also they make a frightening swarm of beers racket and are insanely expensive given that you could buy a 240S and have a load of change left over.
Oh, going by what somone I trust told me, steer clear of the American Classic hubs that JRA sell. Apparently not so great.
Oh, I'd go DT Swiss 240S if money were no object btw. Or Pro 2s if you don't mind the noise. The DTs are slightly lighter - 20g or so - significantly quieter, though still with a nice tick to them and do away with pawls which always seem to be a weak point with hubs.
Pro 2's sound like they'll do the job. Is it easy to change the Pro 2 freehub bearings?
And what is the difference between Pro 2 and Pro 3.
And finally, although I've been told by everyone to get a Rockshox Reba SL, Ade has one of these and I do prefer the idea of a real spring rather than some dodgy tube of air - so would it be suitable for my soon-to-be-built 'Freeride Surly'?
Pro 2's sound like they'll do the job. Is it easy to change the Pro 2 freehub bearings?
And what is the difference between Pro 2 and Pro 3.
1. I managed to change the Pro 2 freehub bearings - there are three of them, two stacked at one end, one at the other - without any issues. Just drove the old ones out, tapped some new ones in, so easy, I've forgotten the details
Derek - air sprung forks are fine for general trail/XC riding and are also lighter AND more adjustable (infinitely so, in fact) The Patriot runs an air fork, and I've never felt underpowered on that!
As for hubs - I've got no experience of the DT/Bonty hubs, but have got very good experience of Pro2 hubs, much better than XC or Bulb ones. More bearings in them, but they are very simple to service - it takes about 20 secs to take the freehub body off to clean out any muck and check the bearings and about another 5 mins to knock all of the existing bearings out. I did a complete bearing change on a Bulb rear once and it took hours. Conversely, did a complete change on a Pro2 a couple of months ago in about 45 mins without any special tools. I just used a piece of wooden curtain rail as a drift to knock the new bearings in. Oh, and second the Hope vids as being useful for explaining how its done.
Not really that fussed about Mavic hubs. Much harder to service and special tools generally required and would rather avoid cup and cone if I can help it.
My Bontrager select £150 wheels are £1.20 to service are in their 5 year of peaks riding have replaced the free hub once for £16 and three spokes Swinnerton were selling them for £99 a pair at SITS they are very light too .SITS was the easiest for years only had to do 5 laps !
It's the very adjustability of air forks that I'm suspicious of! I can't bear all that faffing about with positive this, negative that and five different types of "threshold". Plus, there is no way I would ever take a shock pump with me. Where would I put it for a start?
A nice big spring to soak up the bumps and some oil to control the damping sounds good to me
I think it's the freehub bearings that tend to go on the Pro 2, leastways that's what happened with Julie's wheel. I changed them all to be on the safe side though. You like the noise then?
Loose ball bearings are fine up to a point. Granted, they are cheap to replace - but the seals around them are usually rudimentary or non-existent. And you still have the problem of what to do when the bearing faces wear out. If you are lucky you can get a replacement axle, but quite often the race inside the hub is just not designed to be replaced. I've had a couple of Campagnolo road hubs with just this problem.