 Got a Hotpoint WF640 which is a few years old now.
It's making a proper racket on the spin cycle and the drums not turning...it flashes up an error number F05 which i've looked at on their website as a jammed pressure switch.
Also whilst looking they say an engineer can come out for £110 and fix the machine no matter what the price of the repair.
So does anyone know if a pressure switch is an expensive repair i.e. worth the £110
or
Is it worth replacing the washing machine as it must be over 5 years old by now
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 Depends on the quality of the machine in the first place, 5 years is about how long an average machine would last, I think that once one problem ocoures, others will soon follow, unless its a quality piece of kit.
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 I'd guess that you can get a new one for £200 or so. Or get a pressure switch and change it yourself.
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 See how much the pressure switch will cost and if it's cheap and you can download a manual you might as well go for it.
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 Do you have a local free paper? if so look in the small ad's and see if there's a local guy who can take a butchers for you, its normally a darn site cheaper.
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Going to take it apart and get a new pump...£22, looking at the washing machine forums...Yes you heard right, forums for washing machine users...Hotpoint Aquarius Machines last for 5-8 years. So if I break the amchine with my mechanical ineptitude it's ok we were getting another one anyway. On the other hand, if I fix it, I get lots of brownie points and a washing machine for another year or two.
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Haynes do a Manual for washing machines.
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 Pull the m/c out and remove the rear back plate,you may see a centre bearing here, have a look for black or rusty water marks, get someone else to turn drum by hand from the outher side,keep your hands clear or you may get your fingers trapped,, and look for any movement in the bearings,or a puddle of balck wate on the floor. If there is, its the bearings knackered, and its a major strip down of the m/c to fix, and some special tools to get the bearings out. Or just hit it with a broken cistern lid.
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Hopefully I'll only do it once, we saw this tip online...buy a £300 washing machine sell it in years for £100 and buy another £300 one. The missus found a video on you tube! hopefully won't need a haynes manual.
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SB...it really isn't anything at all to do with bearings! It's the pump.
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The pump has nothing to do with the drum not moveing,as the pump empties the drum before the spin cycle,it may well not be the pump, or the m/c would not empty.
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The pump has nothing to do with the drum not moveing,as the pump empties the drum before the spin cycle,it may well not be the pump, or the m/c would not empty.
Of course it has, the machine won't spin with the drum full of water. The pressure switch tells the machine when the pump has emptied the drum, no water left = no pressure in the system.
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It's making a proper racket on the spin cycle and the drums not turning Actually I can see how you interpreted that as bearings going... Anyway, the racket was a whining sound as in an motor squeeling, then the F-05 error which was an error for the pressure switch. I took out the outlet pipes and emptied a load of grunge and muck, It the completed two fill spin cycles and seemed to be ok Put it on a full fast wash cycle then it went to error F-11 which is a pump failure and it didn't drain. So to me the failure incident seems to be a blocked out let pipe...caused the pump to fail and thus is left without a pump
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Water flowing through the pump is what keeps it cool, once it heats up the seal (between the wet and dry part) fails, end of pump.
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Somwhere on the machine around the base is a drain plug for all the crap, and money that gets into it,empty this and the filter. Turn the dial to fast spin if the machine is empty of water, and see if it spins,also take the back plate or top off and see if the belts are tight. Some machines if there is water in the safety switch will not let you open the door as well.
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Some machines if there is water in the safety switch will not let you open the door as well. Which is disabled by turning it off...I know 
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Thats called a fail open switch it loses power and opens, some when they loose power stay locked for safety, so if the power goes off,you cant open the door and flood the kitchen.Not a problem with tiles, but a major problem with laminate flooring or in flats. Similar to access control on security doors, as if the power failed ,and the system is in fail open, the doors would open, so all a burglar would need to do would be to cut the power. To get out then , you smash the pannel on the green box at the side of the door, this then releases the door,hopefully.
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| Edited: 08/11/09 21:21 |
 Check the tube that runs to the pressure switch, ours got all gunked up so the machine couldn't tell whether it was full or empty. I guess the fault code thing ought to be able to tell the difference between gunked pipe and badgered switch, but it's worth a look 'cos it's free to fix 
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WMM
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