Undo the bolts going through the caliper,  squeeze and hold the lever and re tighten likely sort it.

Learn how to set up disc brakes

Don't listen to Dyl, thats the worse way you can set up brakes.

Look At the brakes as you squeeze them which ever one is contacting the rotor first and probably bending it needs the piston pushing back in.

To do this push the metal backing plate of the opposite pad away from the caliper bending the disc slightly and pushing the opposite pad and piston back in. Do this [little bits at a time] until both pads are moving up to the rotor at the same time and the rotor isn't being deflected.

• Don't touch the pistons to move the pads V Important
• First make sure you have your caliper sat absolutely middle for diddle on your rotor first, measure the gap where the pads go put an indelible mark on the caliper in the centre line this up with the rotor.

Thankyou XC man, you've explained what I've written probably 100 times on forums in the past. But maybe you've explained it in a manner that laymen understand better. www. sram.com will be helpful if you go to the tech section too.

Not through the caliper ie don't undo the caliper just the ones going into the mount.

Although I agree XC Man,  it's a pain in the arse to do and Juicy's Tri Mount system is actually pretty good,  it works fine as it says in there manual,  but I do prefer it if I put some pressure onto the caliper at the same time to take out abit of the disk warp.

Deflecting the rotor is wasted hand power as it's going into bending the rotor.

Answer is buy british buy Hope

Never mind this Avid rubbish

Time for bed as computer I'm building is fckuin me about and I'l kick it if it doesnt stop.

Hope takes 4hours to setup in the first place with fiddly shims,  but they are fit and forget after that,  unless you change your hub then arrgggghhhh!!

I needed a Negative Shim ( not possible ) for my C2's or cutting back on the disk flanges   but hey it got by.

I've got a PC in for repair haven't been arsed to look at it yet,  fixed 2 already this week,  1 was a partition screw up,  it created a unformatted C: drive moving C: to E: intact,  but ofcourse it couldn't boot from E,  arrggggghhhhhhhhh 4 HOURS to sort!!

Juicy's Tri Mount system is actually pretty good

sorry, mate, but the Juicy "let's use v-brake washers" system sucks, id have my fiddly shims back any day. rather easy to set up and, as you say fit and forget. the C2's were the best one's i had for never rubbing

but ofcourse it couldn't boot from E

could've just modified the boot.ini to look for windows on a different partition??

Errrmmm Yesss ( Dyl, 69ers still ROCK ) wrote (see)

Hope takes 4hours to setup in the first place with fiddly shims,  but they are fit and forget after that,  unless you change your hub then arrgggghhhh!!

The thing that i don't like about Avid is that if you take the time to face the IS mounts, you still have the possiblity of misalignment due to poorly made washers and in some cases, human error.(when you attend SRAM product seminars, they teach you set up the brake completely different to the description in the manual. But they still haven't changed the manual to reflect this.)

With most other brakes, if you push the pistons home, loosen the CPS bolts, pump the lever, then centre the caliper over the rotor, they work fine. 5mins fettling for improved feel and wear rates seems worth it to me.

I've adjusted about 18 sets of poorly aligned calipers this weekend alone, you get a bit tired of it after 4 years of explaining it over and over and over and over and over and over and over again.