 I just cant seem to get at all comfortable on my best road bike at the moment.
On my road bike, despite much cleat position tweaking, I just cant get comfortable, and it constantly feels like my legs are twisted/knotted, and its difficult to pin it down to just one place on my legs.
Its not painful, but does reduce the amount of pressure I want to apply and I'm sure adds to fatigue during a long road race.
I guess I'm doing more hours MTBing than road nowadays, but am perfectly comfortable on the MTB.
any advice, anyone had anything similar, could a physio help, how about those cyclefit people? worth while?
|
 |
 If you've tried and failed to sort it yourself then the CycleFit route could be well worth it.
I would try replicating your MTB position on your road bike and also try your MTB pedals and shoes on it.
|
|
 Yeah, I was gonna say try the MTB pedals/shoes on the road bike.
And the opposite. Stick your road pedals on the MTB, set your cleats up on a road ride on the MTB or sommat, then swap pedals back to road bike.
|
|
MTB pedals/shoes on road bike is a good idea. If thats comfortable then I know it is just position of cleats and not the rest of my position.
MTB position and road position are somewhat different (MTB is more upright), and also I guess I do more moving around on the bike on the MTB whereas much more sitting down pedalling on the road bike, but there are some basiocs I can try and get the same regarding the foot position, and maybe saddle relative to cranks also.
|
|
 I couldn't get on with my new road shoes and ended up drilling holes 1cm further back in the sole and fixing some inserts with car boddy filler so I could get the cleats far enough back. You'd expect to be able to get the axle in the same place relative to your foot with MTB and roadie shoes but in the case of shimano R151 and M152 there's a big difference.
|
|
 egg beaters will solve your problem.
|
|
Not with roadie shoes they won't.
|
|
But Time might. :)
|
|
|
|
|
 Sounds like you need a set of road pedals with as much float as possible.MTB pedals tend to have more float.
What pedals are you using on both bikes?
|
|
MTB: Shimano PD-M959 pedals with SH51 cleat
Road: Shimano SPD-SL (Ultegra) with SH11 cleat (the SH11 is the floating one apparently, SH10 is fixed)
Thinking about it, I dont remember having this problem on my winter road bike, on which I use SPDs with SH51s also.
You say MTBs have more float (makes sense I guess).
|
|
If you use the 959 then go to a road pedal you will notice a huge difference in float,the 959 has plenty of it.I use Look PP396 pedals with a float adjuster which aren't too bad,they have more float than the Shimano road pedals.
|
|
i use 959 on all my bikes road ,tandem and m.t.b..Just right.however would like ti eggs for next time.
|
|
 Highly reccommend Speedplay for oodles of float.
|
|
 WTF £200 for a pedal!!!!
|
|
No, you get two for that Frichie. SPD-SL don't so much float as allow you to place your foot where you want. If you want a pedal that allows your foot to twist in and out with little resistance as the cranks go around like your M959s try Time, Speedplay or another brand that really floats.
|
|
I got my Frogs for £19 off Ebay. One set of new cleats in three years.
Okay so I paid £130 for the X-2s, they are still going strong with the original cleats some 5 yrs later.
The cheapest are about £65 for the Frog off-road. X-3 road are around £89.
There again with hindsight, I would have paid £200 not to have damaged my knees with the spd's 10-15 years ago. Hmm titanium axles, now there's a thought, (Oh sh*t time to give the old card a hammering on Ebay). Toddles off to another website
|
|
 The purists will have a fit, but just run 959s on the road bike.
|
|
