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 SpannerTroll |
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| Posted: 17/06/08 09:11:58 58 |
| The barrel adjuster is up on the shifter, not on the mech itself. sounds like you need to wind it OUT a little, to move the plates toward the big ring. Start of by backing the H/L limit screws all the way out, and then use the barrel adjuster to adjust the mech so that when in the middle-front, all of the cogs at rear work with no noise, then try adjusting up and down. this may take a little trial and error. The limit screws are only there to stome the mech from going too fare in either diredtion, so are generally the last thing you would set. |
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| SpannerTroll |
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| Posted: 12/08/07 02:02:44 44 |
| What is your hub? Shimano ones can be adjusted to remove play, most others are buggered... |
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| SpannerTroll |
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| Posted: 12/08/07 02:01:33 33 |
| Kevlar in Bra's?? You really wouldn't want a puncture there!! Imagine a blowout at speed...... Doesn't bear thinking about!! |
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| SpannerTroll |
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| Posted: 13/07/07 02:16:44 44 |
| If its your first time on a 'decent' fork, it probably will feel too soft. The sag seems about right, but you need to check how much travel you are getting. wrap a zip-tie around one stanchion, and go for a ride over fairly rough terrain, the sort of stuff you would normally hit. The zip-tie should tell you how much the forks have moved. You shoul get the full travel only onece or twice, so if you seem to be bashing through all the travel on a regular basis, you may need a harder spring. |
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| SpannerTroll |
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| Posted: 12/07/07 16:18:02 02 |
Wider rims generally mean wider tyres will sit more comfortably, and you should be able to run them at lower pressures. They should also be a bit stronger, but they will be heavier, and roll a bit slower.
As for hubs, you really wont go far wrong with Hope's. Light, (relatively)cheap, and a great reputation.
You can get wide hubs that are pretty lighy (the DT 5.1 are a good example) that would be grat for a tough hardtail. |
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