Winter technique Winter puts the skids under your riding in more ways than one, but it's also the best time of the year to pick up new skills and experience the best the countryside has to offer in terms of fresh, cold air, and deserted trails. So wrap up warm and pay attention as we bring you another instalment in the BIKEmagic guide to getting the best from the darker 6 months of the year. So how do you keep the far reaches of your body free from frostbite?

 

Head

With all that brainwork going on and only a thin layer of leather upholstery and hair keeping it insulated, it's not suprising your body loses masses of it's heat through your head.

This means that even if your head doesn't feel that cold, your body is working harder to re-warm blood before it pumps out to other areas, so covering your bonce is a very smart way to keep your core temperature up.

The problem is that you need to fit this extra insulation under a helmet, which rules out bobble hats and the like. There are still plenty of thin thermal devices that will slide underneath your lid though. Various companies such as Pearl Izumi do specific thermal skull caps, while Buff's are stretchy thermal tubes in all sorts of colours that fit around head and neck in a startling number of ways to keep you cosy. Don't be tempted to use a cotton bandana as it'll soak up sweat and end up conducting heat faster than your bare head. If it's really cold then simply taping up the front vents on your helmet stops freezing draughts.

Ears are another potential sore point but again there are several brands of fleece or Windstopper ear warmers available, and the ever useful Buff will also keep the ice from your lugs.

Although not srictly an extremity, your neck carries a lot of blood near the surface, and keeping that warm massively increases your feeling of cosiness. Scarves are generally too cumbersome but a short strip of fleece or a Buff plugged into the gap between your jacket and your head will work winter wonders, though look for high collared jackets in the first place for maximum draught exclusion.

 

Hands

Many a winter ride has been turned miserable by frozen mitts but there's no need for it to happen. There are countless excellent gloves out there but you don't need to spend a fortune if you pay attention to a few essential points.

Cramped circulation is the cause of most frozen fingers, so make sure you buy gloves big enough, with no tight spots anywhere. If you're buying a mid or lightweight set then make sure there's enough room to slip a thin pair of thermal gloves underneath for extra insulation when needed.

The second point is making sure the cuffs are long enough to overlap your jacket sleeves, so they don't gap when you reach out on the bars or bar ends. Gloves that need to go round the outside of the jacket are cosy in the wind, but if it rains, water will just run down the jacket arms and into the glove. However if you tuck the sleeves over the glove make sure they can be snugged down enough to stop draughts.

Make sure you check the glove around a grip before you buy it too. Some heavily insulated mitts have too much movement between palm and liner for easy control, while others can bunch up and feel lumpy. Make sure the fingers don't tighten up when you grip the bar either or they'll cut circulation. If in doubt over how much cosiness to get, we'd normally plump for bigger and better insulated mitts as you'll only lose control if your fingers go numb anyway.

 

Hooves

Frozen feet are so much a part of winter mountain biking it almost seems cheating to try and keep them free from the misery of frost bite but there are now increasing numbers of new weapons to line up alongside traditional warmth wisdom.

Specific winter boots are now available from several manufacturers. The cost might seem extravagant at first but considering you'll be riding for about 5 months in them they'll soon more than pay you back with joyful toe cosiness, thanks to waterproof outers and fleecy woolen liners. North Wave Arctic or Sidi Inverno boots get our vote, unless you can still find a pair of the monster Lake MX winter boots.

Waterproof socks from (Porelle or Sealskins) have been a saviour for many feet but if your circulation is on the sluggish side anyway they offer little thermal help. Make sure you aren't cramming them into tight shoes which then restrict circulation, and if there's room slip some thin thermal liner socks underneath - the difference in warmth is phenomenal.

Basic woolly socks are also excellent insualtors even when soggy, and don't be afraid to go for knee length specials for lovely hot legs. If you can't run to a new pair of shoes, and the pair you've got are too tight for thick socks then add the protection on the outside. Neoprene overshoes aren't totally waterproof but they'll still be warm when wet and they'll keep your shoes clean too. Make sure you get a pair with cut outs for sole tread, but expect the toes to flip up and fill with mud / snow if you have to walk very far in them.

At the risk of howls of derision from riding mates, walker's gaiters are also very handy for keeping water off shins and calves if your trails are as flooded as ours at the moment. Try and find a pair with a front hook that will fit onto your lower laces or straps, and make sure they've got an instep strap to stop them riding up.

 

Tune in later.... Having "outed" my love of knee length woolly socks and waterproof gaiters, it's probably time to leave before it gets ugly but here's what to expect in part 5. Now you're ready for the dark and dirty weather we figure it's time to give you the low down on the essential winter survival techniques and cunning Eskimo tricks that'll keep you safe and snug in those truly epic arctic situations. So if any of you frost hardened old lags out there have got some advice handed down by generations of elderly trawlermen or that you've learnt the hard way yourself, get them mailed in and recieve that extra warm glow of knowing you might have helped out somebody in need.

Thanks to Craig Furber for our first set of members tips;

Three things for winter riding that I have found useful:

Spray the entire frame (the entire bike even) with a lube (WD40 or similar). During winter riding on the road (or even off-road), less gunk sticks to your bike and it's easier to clean at the end of the week.

No layering system can cope with the physical demands of the cyclist in terms of generation of heat etc.. For conditions that are wintery but not actually raining I have found a couple of useful things;

If you have a thinner windproof garment that isn't waterproof then you can you use a waterproofing spray (usually meant for tents) to enhance the properties of your garment - this also works well on shorts and leggings.

Secondly wear as little insulation as possible. Even if the first .5 miles is cold this soon is compensated for by the heat you will generate. This is only advisable if the journey is short or you know that if you are going to stop you have a toasty-warm place to rest in.

Hands are most susceptible to cold in the winter. What I have found useful is a thin pair of insulation gloves (usually made from acryllic or something similiar) that can fit snuggly under other gloves to provide warmth (I use them under a pair of fingerless gloves and a pair of sealskinz, they work a treat).

Still the best thing about winter riding is the clean, openess of the countryside, and the absence of other people. Getting to the Peaks in November and riding for a weekend is so exhilarating, miles of crisp clean hills, no one about, and - if you want it - lots of goopy, thick mud.